The big news in the cheese world was the FDA's recent closure of the Estrella Family Creamery in Montesano, Washington, which caused quite the ruckus in the Northwest (read more details at the Pacific Northwest Cheese Project website). Estrella had been having some trouble with Listeria contamination in the past several months. The forced shut-down stems from prior FDA product recalls and tests at the facility with positive indications of Listeria. Upon hearing the news a few days ago, I was surprised. I knew the creamery had been having problems curbing the Listeria issue at their facility. But, one, I was under the impression that those issues were being diligently addressed. And, two, it seems a little ridiculous that the FDA can come in all drug-bust style, raid a farm, and confiscate cheese like a scene out of the Wire. Granted, I didn't see the event, but having the FDA drive up with Federal Marshals to seize cheese, doesn't seem like a routine visit from the health inspector.
Estrella is a true family-run operation: just mom, dad, and six kids, each with a role in either taking care of the animals or making cheese. I had visited the creamery a few weeks ago during their farm store hours. They make awesome cheese that I love. If this puts them out of business for good, it would be a tragedy. Also, while I was there I was graciously given a tour by a member of the family. I saw that the creamery was taking multiple corrective measures, including renovations, installing better air-flow systems, and halting the production of the most problematic cheese. It seemed like the FDA tests and recalls were being taken very seriously and everyone was doing their best to eliminate the issues.
Listeria is a bacteria that is commonly found in the environment. True, good sanitation can help prevent its growth. Historically there have been Listeria issues in cheesemaking facilities with poor sanitation. Yet, because Listeria is so common, you could probably find it anywhere if you really tried. For that reason, I've heard stories of several very meticulous and clean cheesemakers who have had a lot of trouble ridding their facility of Listeria. Some have found it so impossible to get rid of it that they simply shut down and move to a new facility. In many stituations it has nothing to do with any wrong-doing or error in sanitation on the cheesemaker's part.
While Listeria is a serious and deadly bacteria, especially with vulnerable populations such as the elderly and pregnant women, it's also just a food risk like any other. I've eaten raw meat on multiple occasions. I'm warned of the risk. As long as the food preparation is done in a clean manner, if I get sick, it's my own damn fault. Most pregnant women are told not to eat raw milk cheeses because of the chance of Listeria hurting the fetus. After being warned of the risk, people make their own reasoned decisions. I've heard that European women are far more likely to eat raw milk cheese when pregnant. Once, my entire family got violent Salmonella poisoning from eating at Applebee's. To my recollection, there was no FDA raid on chicken breasts in the Applebee's kitchen. It seems that product recalls and corrective measures usually address these situation (unless it is very grave or the result of severe issues).
Yes, health inspectors and food safety regulations should be respected. It's a good rule of thumb to treat government workers nicely and respect the crappyness of their job. If you do, then the relationship you build with them is likely to be productive, and at times, save your ass. Yet, the way some foods, especially dairy products, are treated as contraband is asinine. Some of the regulations regarding cheeses are downright stupid. Many state regulations require that cheese be kept at 41 degrees at farmers markets. Despite the fact that most cheeses have been living their entire life in an aging cave set to temperatures in the 50s, and the best way to eat cheese is at room temperature. Raw milk is treated like poison despite the fact that in many ways it's much better for you than the jugs you get in the grocery store. At a certain point we create a culture of paranoia.
Nobody wants someone to get sick, or worse yet, die from their product. Every cheesemaker I've met or worked with does their best to comply with the rules, keep everything sanitary, and take corrective measures when something goes wrong. You do the best you can, take precautions, and the rest is just a risk like anything else in life.
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